Incident wave, infragravity wave, and non-linear low-frequency bore evolution across fringing coral reefs

Curt Daron Storlazzi, U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center Santa Cruz, Santa Cruz, CA, United States, Diederik Griffioen, University of Plymouth, School of Marine Science and Engineering, Plymouth, United Kingdom and Olivia M Cheriton, U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, CA, United States
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