Numerical Simulations of Nearshore Wave Processes using the Phase-Resolving SWASH Model in Tres Palmas and Isla Verde Marine Reserves, Puerto Rico
Colin Evans1, Miguel Canals2, Patricia Chardon-Maldonado3, Shawn R Harrison4, Olivia M Cheriton5, Joshua B Logan5, Kurt J Rosenberger5, Daniel J. Nowacki6, Cordell D Johnson5 and Curt Daron Storlazzi7, (1)University of Puerto Rico Mayaguez, Caribbean Coastal Ocean Observing System, Mayaguez, PR, United States, (2)University of Puerto Rico Mayaguez, Caribbean Coastal Ocean Observing System, Mayaguez, United States, (3)Caribbean Coastal Ocean Observing System, Puerto Rico, United States, (4)U.S. Naval Research Laboratory, Ocean Sciences Division, Stennis Space Center, United States, (5)USGS Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, CA, United States, (6)University of Washington, Seattle, WA, United States, (7)US Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, United States
Abstract:
Nearshore wave processes in complex coastal regions provide a challenge for accurately modeling wave energy dissipation, wave run-up and coastal flooding. Two marine reserve areas located in Puerto Rico, Isla Verde and Tres Palmas, are characterized by fragile reef systems densely populated by elkhorn (
Acropora palmata) coral, staghorn (
A. cervicornis) coral, and other endangered species. The additional factors of complex bathymetric features and exposure to extreme swell events generated by hurricanes and winter storms further complicates modeling efforts in these areas.
Given this complexity, Tres Palmas and Isla Verde pose ideal test beds to assess the accuracy of the phase-resolving SWASH (Simulating Waves till Shore) model in simulating wave transformation, nearshore circulation and water levels. Wave and current meters, along with pressure sensors aligned in shore-normal transects, were deployed off the coasts of Isla Verde and Tres Palmas Marine Reserves in November 2018 and July 2019, respectively, for 6-month durations to measure wave transformation and dissipation from anticipated swell events. Field data collected from these sensors will be used to calibrate SWASH using two-dimensional simulations of several wave events during the deployment periods. The capabilities of 2D SWASH to reproduce processes such as refraction and shoaling effects, wave run-up, and wave breaking will be assessed. Additionally, another objective is to model a strong alongshore jet forced by large radiation stress gradients in Tres Palmas. Preliminary comparisons between the SWASH wave model and field data collected from the deployed wave sensors as well as video imagery within both regions are discussed in this analysis.
