A unified formulation for predicting the breaking strength of gravity water waves from deep to shallow water
Morteza Derakhti, University of Washington Seattle Campus, Applied Physics Laboratory, Seattle, United States, James T Kirby Jr, University of Delaware, Civil and Environmental Engineering, Newark, DE, United States, Michael L Banner, c/o The University of NSW, Sydney, NSW, Australia, Stephan T Grilli, University of Rhode Island, Narragansett, RI, United States and Jim Thomson, University of Washington, Seattle, United States