What controls the speed of rip currents? Comparing field observations, numerical simulations, and a parameterization

Wave breaking on alongshore non-uniform beaches can drive rip currents near bathymetric depressions. Understanding the controls on the speed of these offshore-directed flows is important for improving predictions of beach hazards, the transport of pollutants and larvae, and morphological evolution. To investigate the response of nearshore flows to non-uniform bathymetry, five channels (on average 30-m wide and 2-m deep) were dredged across the surf zone on the Outer Banks of NC at different times using the propellers of a landing craft, and the subsequent evolution of waves, currents, and morphology was observed for a range of incident wave conditions. In addition, flows are simulated with the COAWST modeling system for the observed incident waves and rip channel bathymetry, and for an extended range of wave conditions and rip channel geometries. A parameter for the maximum offshore-directed flow speed in the surf zone is derived using depth-averaged momentum balances and continuity. The most important terms controlling the offshore-directed flow (rip current) speed are the incident wave height and angle, the water depths in the channel and on the sandbar crest or the terrace through which the channel is incised, and the ratio of wave height to water depth at breaking. The parameter accounts for several wave-breaking regimes, and includes the effect of the suppression of cross-shore flows by the inertia of breaking-wave driven alongshore currents. The parameter has skill predicting the observed and simulated offshore-directed flow speed. Supported by ASDR&E, NDSEG, ONR, and NSF.