Wave Dissipation over Nearshore Beach Morphology: Insights from High-Resolution LIDAR Observations and the SWASH Wave Model

Numerical modelling of the nearshore zone can be computationally intensive due to the complexity of wave breaking, and the need for high temporal and spatial resolution. In this study we apply the SWASH non-hydrostatic wave-flow model that phase-resolves the free surface and fluid motions in the water column at high resolution. The model is forced using observed directional energy spectra, and results are compared to wave observations during moderate storm events. Observations are collected outside the surf zone using acoustic wave and currents sensors, and inside the surf zone over a 100 m transect using high-resolution LIDAR measurements of the sea surface from a sensor mounted on a tower on the beach dune at the Field Research Facility in Duck, NC. The model is applied to four cases with different wave conditions and bathymetry, and used to predict the spatial variability in wave breaking, and correlation between energy dissipation and morphologic features. Model results compare well with observations of spectral evolution outside the surf zone, and with the remotely sensed observations of wave transformation inside the surf zone. The results indicate the importance of nearshore bars, rip-channels, and larger features (major scour depression under the pier following large waves from Hurricane Irene) on the location of wave breaking and alongshore variability in wave energy dissipation.