Remote Sensing Characterization of Two-dimensional Wave Forcing in the Surf Zone

In the surf zone, breaking waves drive longshore currents, transport sediment, shape bathymetry, and enhance air-sea gas and particle exchange. Furthermore, wave group forcing influences the generation and duration of rip currents. Wave breaking exhibits large gradients in space and time, making it challenging to measure in situ. Remote sensing technologies, specifically thermal infrared (IR) imagery, can provide detailed spatial and temporal measurements of wave breaking at the water surface. We construct two-dimensional maps of active wave breaking from IR imagery collected during the Surf Zone Optics Experiment in September 2010 at the US Army Corps of Engineers’ Field Research Facility in Duck, NC. For each breaker identified in the camera’s field of view, the crest-perpendicular length of the aerated breaking region (roller length) and wave direction are estimated and used to compute the wave energy dissipation rate. The resultant dissipation rate maps are analyzed over different time scales: peak wave period, infragravity wave period, and tidal wave period. For each time scale, spatial maps of wave breaking are used to characterize wave forcing in the surf zone for a variety of wave conditions. The following phenomena are examined: (1) wave dissipation rates over the bar (location of most intense breaking) have increased variance in infragravity wave frequencies, which are different from the peak frequency of the incoming wave field and different from the wave forcing variability at the shoreline, and (2) wave forcing has a wider spatial distribution during low tide than during high tide due to depth-limited breaking over the barred bathymetry. Future work will investigate the response of the variability in wave setup, longshore currents and rip currents, to the variability in wave forcing in the surf zone.