Unusually Large Runup Events

Understanding the primary hydrodynamic processes that cause extreme runup events is important for the prediction of dune erosion and coastal flooding. Large runups may be caused by a superposition of physical and environmental conditions, bore-bore capture, infragravity-short wave interaction, and/or swash-backwash interaction. To investigate the conditions leading to these events we combine optical remote sensing observations (Argus) and state-of-the-art phase resolving numerical modeling (primarily NHWAVE). We evaluate runup time series derived from across-shore transects of pixel intensities in two very different beaches: Agate (Oregon, USA) and Duck (North Carolina, USA). The former is a dissipative beach where the runup is dominated by infragravity energy, whereas the latter is a reflective beach where the runup is dominated by short surface gravity waves. Phase resolving numerical models are implemented to explore an expanded parameter set and identify the mechanisms that control these large runups. Model results are in good qualitative agreement with observations. We also distinguish unexpected runups, which are defined by having an unexpectedly large excursion distance in comparison to the hourly-to-daily local runup conditions and do not necessarily represent a statistical extrema. These events pose significant safety hazards. We evaluate the relative contribution of the dominating physics to extreme and unexpected runup events.