Migrating Shoals on Ebb-tidal Deltas: Results from Numerical Simulations

Many ebb-tidal deltas show repetitive patterns of channel- shoal generation, migration and attachment of shoals to the downdrift barrier coast. For the Wadden Sea coast along the Dutch, German en Danish coastline the typical time scale of shoal attachment ranges from several to hundred years. There is a weak correlation between the tidal prism and the typical time scale of shoal attachment. The main aim of this research is to clarify the physical processes that result in the formation of shoals on ebb-tidal deltas and to study what determines their propagation speed. To this end numerical simulations were performed in Delft3D. Starting from an idealized geometry with a sloping bed on the shelf sea and a flat bed in the back barrier basin, the model was spun up until an approximate morphodynamic steady state was realized. The model was forced with tides and constant wave forcing based on the yearly average conditions along the Dutch Wadden coast. The resulting ebb-tidal delta is called the equilibrium delta. Next, two types of scenarios were run. First, the equilibrium delta was breached by creating a channel and adding the removed sand volume to the downdrift shoal. Second, the wave climate was made more realistic by adding storms and subsequently its effect on the equilibrium delta was simulated. Based on the model results we conclude the following. First, the model is able to realistically simulate the migration of shoals and the attachment to the downdrift barrier island. Second, larger waves result in faster propagation of the shoals. Third, simulations suggest that shoals only migrate when they are shallower than a critical maximum depth with respect to the wave height. These shallow shoals can be ‘man-made’ or be generated during storms. When no storms were added to the wave climate and the bed was not artificially disturbed, no migrating shoals were simulated. During the presentation the underlying physical processes will be discussed in detail.