Wind growth and wave breaking in higher-order spectral phase resolved wave models

Richard Leighton and David T Walker, SRI International, Ann Arbor, MI, United States
Abstract:
Wind growth and wave breaking are a integral parts of the wave evolution. Higher-Order
Spectral models (HoS) describing the non-linear evolution require empirical models
for these effects. In particular, the assimilation of phase-resolved remote
sensing data will require the prediction and modeling of wave breaking events.
The HoS formulation used in this effort is based on fully nonlinear model of 
O. Nwogu (2009). The model for wave growth due to wind is based on the early
normal and tangential stress model of Munk (1947). The model for wave breaking
contains two parts. The first part initiates the breaking events based on the
local wave geometry and the second part is a model for the pressure field, which
acting against the surface normal velocity extracts energy from the wave. The models
are tuned to balance the wind energy input with the breaking wave losses and to be similar
field observations of breaking wave coverage. The initial wave field, based on a
Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum for 10 meter wind speed of 5-15 m/s, defined over a
region of up to approximate 2.5 km on a side with the simulation running for several hundreds of peak wave periods. Results will be presented describing the evolution of the wave field.

Sponsored by Office of Naval Research, Code 322