Mechanisms of ripple migration on a natural sand bed under waves

In nearshore environments, the wave bottom boundary layer is of particular importance to bedform migration and evolution as it is the location of energy transfer from the water column to the bed. This effort examines the mechanisms responsible for bedform evolution and migration. In a field scale laboratory study, sand ripple dynamics were measured using particle image velocimetry. Both monotonic (T = 4 s, 8 s), bimodal (wave pair T = 3.7, 4.3 s), and solitary wave cases were examined. Bedform states included orbital and anorbital rippled beds with wavelengths ranging from 5 to 15 cm. During cases of moderately high energy, time series of instantaneous ripple migration rates oscillated with the same frequency as the surface waves. The oscillatory ripple migration signature was asymmetric, with higher amplitudes during onshore directed movement. This asymmetry leads to a net onshore migration, ranging from 0.1 to 0.6 cm/min in the wave conditions mentioned. The cyclic motion of the ripple field was compared to concomitant transfer mechanisms affecting the boundary layer dynamics including: bed shear stress, coherent structure generation, and free stream velocity. Coherent structures were identified using the swirling strength criterion, and were present during each half wave developing in the ripple troughs. Two estimates of bed shear stress were made: 1) Meyer-Peter Muller method using the bed migration to determine the necessary stress and 2) double averaging of the velocity field and partitioning into components of stress, following the methods of Rodriguez-Abudo and Foster (2014). Peak ripple migration rates occurred during strengthening onshore flow, which coincides with peak bed shear stresses and the onset of coherent structure formation. Higher energy bimodal wave groups caused periods of high suspension which were coincident with peak onshore migrations, during the low velocity periods of the bimodal forcing the bed did not migrate.