Observations of Seasonal Morphological Evolution at a Moderately Energetic Beach in Rincón, Puerto Rico

Seasonal variations in the wave climate near Rincón, Puerto Rico include high winter swells associated with meteorological disturbances in the north and mid Atlantic, short period waves resulting from local storms, and the occasional south swell. The resulting beach morphology is therefore a complex function of the wave climate, wave-induced currents, and local and remote meteorology, among others. Over the past 75 years, this particular stretch of beach has suffered severe erosion problems, losing as much as 100 meters of beach width at particular locations. The purpose of this study is to develop a high-resolution time series of beach morphology to examine in more detail the seasonal variations at the site. Beach profiles will be collected on a weekly basis using an RTK GPS system at three permanent stations spanning 2 km of coast. Sediment samples will be collected along the profiles to identify sediment properties associated with distinct morphological features, while digital photographs will provide a qualitative sense of beach width. The resulting morphological changes will be assessed in light of the Rincon’s directional Waverider buoy data and CariCOOS’ SWAN high-resolution wave model. This study will provide quantifiable insights into seasonal erosion/accretion trends at a highly touristic stretch of coast in the US Caribbean.