A preliminary evaluation of nearhore extreme sea level and wave models for fringing reef environments

Oceanic islands are widely perceived as vulnerable to sea level rise and are characterized by steep nearshore topography and fringing reefs. In such settings, near shore dynamics and (non-tidal) water level variability tends to be dominated by wind-wave processes. These processes are highly sensitive to reef morphology and roughness and to regional wave climate. Thus sea level extremes tend to be highly localized and their likelihood can be expected to change in the future (beyond simple extrapolation of sea level rise scenarios): e.g. sea level rise may increase the effective mean depth of reef crests and flats and ocean acidification and/or increased temperatures may lead to changes in reef structure. The problem is sufficiently complex that analytic or numerical approaches are necessary to estimate current hazards and explore potential future changes. In this study, we evaluate the capacity of several analytic/empirical approaches and phase-averaged and phase-resolved numerical models at sites in the insular tropical Pacific. We consider their ability to predict time-averaged wave setup and instantaneous water level exceedance probability (or dynamic wave run-up) as well as computational cost; where possible, we compare the model results with in situ observations from a number of previous studies. Preliminary results indicate analytic approaches are by far the most computationally efficient, but tend to perform poorly when alongshore straight and parallel morphology cannot be assumed. Phase-averaged models tend to perform well with respect to wave setup in such situations, but are unable to predict processes related to individual waves or wave groups, such as infragravity motions or wave run-up. Phase-resolved models tend to perform best, but come at high computational cost, an important consideration when exploring possible future scenarios. A new approach of combining an unstructured computational grid with a quasi-phase averaged approach (i.e. only phase resolving motions below a frequency cutoff) shows promise as a good compromise between computational efficiency and resolving processes such as wave runup and overtopping in more complex bathymetric situations.