Detecting wave-attenuation over coral reef during 2019 Atlantic Hurricane season at Tres Palmas, Puerto Rico

Shawn R Harrison1, Patricia Chardon-Maldonado2, Miguel Canals3, Colin Evans2, Olivia M Cheriton4, Joshua B Logan4, Kurt J Rosenberger4, Daniel J. Nowacki4, Cordell D Johnson4 and Curt Daron Storlazzi5, (1)U.S. Naval Research Laboratory, Ocean Sciences Division, Stennis Space Center, United States, (2)University of Puerto Rico Mayaguez, Caribbean Coastal Ocean Observing System, Mayaguez, PR, United States, (3)University of Puerto Rico Mayaguez, Caribbean Coastal Ocean Observing System, Mayaguez, United States, (4)USGS Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, CA, United States, (5)USGS Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, United States
Abstract:
Coral reef ecosystems provide protection to coastal communities from storm surge, large waves and flooding events during tropical cyclonic events. Two powerful Category 5 storms during the 2017 Atlantic hurricane season, Hurricanes Irma and Maria, significantly damaged the coral reefs around Puerto Rico, impacting their ability to attenuate wave energy. A partnership was formed between USGS, NOAA, and the University of Puerto Rico-Mayaguez to better understand how waves propagate across coral reefs and cause coastal flooding along tropical shorelines.

Coastal (Argus) video monitoring stations and in situ sensors were installed at the Tres Palmas Marine Reserve in Rincón, located in western Puerto Rico, to record conditions during the 2019 Atlantic Hurricane season. The in situ sensors measured waves and water levels along cross-reef transects while the video cameras provided a spatial picture of wave breaking patterns, wave run-up, and nearshore wave-generated currents during wave events. Two-dimensional SWASH model simulations were run to assess the impact of these events on the nearshore processes. Data assimilation strategies were tested whereby remotely-sensed wave conditions from the video observations were included as model input and also used to augment model settings in order to improve the skill of wave attenuation predictions.

Several wave events were captured during the deployment period, including Hurricane Dorian. Storm wave characteristics are presented, along with an assessment of the techniques used to improve model predictions. Feasibility for implementation as an operational tool is also discussed.

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